Between shining Port Stephens (a 3-hour drive north of Sydney) and peaceful Patonga (on the southern slip of the NSW Central Coast), across beach and bay, and waterfall and winery, my daughters Lili (7) and Mia (10) provided a running commentary on our five-day mini break: “Coolio!” “Amazeballs!!” “Totes ridonculous!!!”
That’s the language of tweens; of wide-eyed exhilaration; of new experiences and lifelong memories, and the vernacular of my kids—totally wowed!
Day One: Port Stephens
Anna Bay is a sweet stretch of turquoise water and crescent sand, a charming seaside village just 15 minutes’ drive south of Nelson Bay. This is the gateway to the Stockton Dunes, a series of uber-impressive sand walls towering skyward. It’s also the best place on the east coast for a sand-boarding adventure—which is why we were there!
Sandboarding on the Stockton Dunes
Getting to the base of the dunes was easy. We took a customised 4WD bus across the beach, over a couple of sandy ‘pimples’ (as the driver called them) to arrive at the base of a giant mound of sand. After some quick instruction, we grabbed our boards and headed heavenward.
Up and up and up we went, stopping to drink in the scenery, sandy mountains humping towards the horizon and bowing to meet the sea. Finally, and only just a little out of breath, we arrived. Next minute, bums planted firmly on boards and fingers dusting the sand to control our speed, we were whipping down the slope.
BOOK THE EXPERIENCE: Unlimited sandboarding on Stockton Dunes + 4WD transfers
Nelson Bay dolphin cruise
Two hours later we were sliding across a different surface: the aquamarine water of Nelson Bay. We were hoping to see dolphins on our cruise and with more than 300 calling the waterway home, it was only a matter of time before we did—a pod of eight including a juvenile, half the size of its mother, surfing the bow waves and lolling just off the starboard side when the captain let the boat bob.
The return boat trip provided the perfect opportunity to wash off the remnants from our sand-boarding. The boom-net was lowered and we slipped into the water—sand (and bikini bottoms, if we weren’t careful) all washed away! Add a spiral waterslide to the mix and shrieks of laughter were guaranteed.
BOOK THE EXPERIENCE: Port Stephens dolphin discovery cruise
Day Two: Newcastle
The following day was time for a history lesson. A swim at the historic Merewether Ocean Baths, with views across the Pacific, and lunch on Darby Street rounded out our day. I was smitten with its artisan aesthetic, from eclectic homewares and unbeatable craft beer to the hippest street art in town.
Newcastle Museum
A 40-minute drive south in the heart of steel city, Newcastle Museum didn’t disappoint. Our guide, the charmingly quirky David, had the girls agog with tales of witch’s shoes (people used to hide shoes in every corner of their roof cavities to ward off the warty ladies), cavernous coalmines, pit ponies and giant ladles filled with molten steel.
We trod the boards of a former Newcastle tram—the girls were particularly taken with the sign: “No spitting inside the carriage, 2-pound fine.” Next, we checked out the Supernova Hands-on Science Centre, where they lingered creating tornadoes, discovering how ‘repulsive’ magnetic fields are and learning about levers (lifting a Mini Moke while pulling on a rope). It was touch, think and feel-tastic!
Fort Scratchley
From there we drove to nearby Fort Scratchley, which has stood sentinel over the entrance to the Hunter River for 200 years. Two huge guns still guard the entrance to the estuary, but it’s underground that really impresses; tunnels scribble the hillside.
Guided by Rick, a former primary school teacher and now retiree, history came to life underground and the girls heard about the enemy sub that shelled Newcastle during WWII. Over an hour of fun discoveries later, we emerged into the sunlight. Any worries I’d had about the girls being bored were dismissed with one little word: “Cooooool!”
Day Three: Lake Macquarie
Next morning, we were up with the sun to take a spin on Lake Macquarie, 40 minutes south of Newcastle. We stayed at Cams Wharf, on the southeastern fringe of NSW’s largest lake, and our SUPs (stand-up paddleboards) were laid out on the shore waiting for us. It was as easy as it looks—the kids were like ducks to water, and I wasn’t far behind!
You can jet boat here too, and kayak, sail, fish or explore the spectacular coastline, including Caves Beach. Visit at low tide and explore the limestone cavern while the surf kisses the shore. Half an hour’s drive north around the lake sits Speers Point Park, which has an amazing collection of climbing, swinging, sliding and water-play equipment for kids.
Day Four and Five: Hunter Valley
Superlatives five and six came courtesy of our next few days in the Hunter Valley: “Delish!” and “Brilliant!”
Hunter Valley Chocolate Company & Cheese Factory
At the Hunter Valley Chocolate Company we sampled hot, cold and fudgy cocoa goodness. The girls grabbed a basket each and loaded up: choc-covered pretzels, honeycomb and strawberry marshmallows, rocky road and giant twirl lollipops. We tried chilli-chocolate bark, choc rocks and bubble-gum fudge.
At the Hunter Valley Cheese Factory it was brie and cheddar and quince paste and olives that made their bellies sing.
Moorebank Winery
A day later, we knocked on the cellar door of the family-friendly boutique winery Moorebank, where the girls met Sheila the merino sheep, taste-tested the vineyard’s Muscat grapes and sampled homemade lemonade. As for me, I was after a drop with a little more bite. Named after Sheila, the vineyard’s Black Sheep Shiraz was sublime – smooth and full of sophisticated flavour. Needless to say, it wasn’t just the girls who filled a basket in the Hunter!
Hunter Valley Gardens
We worked off our indulgences with a walk around the Hunter Valley Gardens, encountering giant grasshoppers (really, it was 3 m high, if an inch!), sculptured hedge brumbies, and the piece de resistance, The Storybook Garden. The girls met Humpty Dumpty, kissed Georgie Porgie, had a tea party with Alice in Wonderland, and tumbled down the hill with Jack and Jill.
BOOK THE EXPERIENCE: Hunter Valley Gardens admission tickets
Day Six: Avoca Beach
From the Hunter, we swept 90 minutes south to Avoca Beach, a sliver of sand and rolling blue, where we met instructors Tilly and Tony for a surf lesson. Wetsuited up and boards under our arms, we headed into the clean little waves that were perfect for beginners.
With a paddle and a push-up, we walked the board for an hour (Lili and Mia much earlier and more easily than me) before an order of fish and chips and a stretch out on the sand.
Nearby, a live band rocked and monthly Sunday markets gave us a chance to shop for hair feathers (the girls’ very favourite thing), bespoke local artwork, clothes, cushions and banana-and-coconut icy cups.
Day Seven: Patonga
On our last day, we made a beeline for Patonga, on the southern tip of the Central Coast, where the river meets the sea, national park abuts the ocean and tree-clad islands float offshore. As we lay in the sun after a swim, saltwater thick on our skin, and listened to the bellbirds calling, we agreed that this was a great way to end our holiday.
Before long, the girls tumbled back into the briny, giving me time to reflect. “Amazing, brilliant, delicious, perfecto!”—fantastic words to describe our trip, but none more so than this… superlative.
HOT TIP – Before you hit the road, make sure you understand the latest child car seat rules in Australia to keep your little ones safe and legal. A map for families: Car seat rules around the world
Opening image: Kids enjoy sand boarding with 4WD R US at Stockton Beach in Port Stephens. © Destination NSW
