I awake to the sounds of splashing in the bay. Emerging onto our balcony, I look across the crescent of sunlit, sandy beach at my feet to our small wave-free bay and see that the commotion is Leo, our nine month-old grandson, exuberantly splashing his chubby hands on the water in joy as small school fish swim around his baby float. Romy, his mother is smiling and splashing, too, as she guides him. Taking a deep breath of warm tropical air I smile with satisfaction that this single moment is everything I dreamed this first intergenerational holiday would be. Sandra (aka Nanny) is now alongside me and we wade in to join mother and son to share the sheer pleasure of a tropical beach holiday, away from the winter chills of Australia.
How we ended up at Marriott Momi Bay
My life has consisted of more than five decades of perpetual motion across the globe, including seven years on two motorcycle circumnavigations and many trips to Fiji to dive, snorkel and explore the embrace of this most welcoming nation. Then I was tasked with planning a winter week outside Australia for us, our daughter Romy and her partner Chris and young son, Leo. The brief was clear: we needed warmth, all-inclusive, and great babysitters. I sought widespread advice, and the answer was universal: go to a resort in Fiji, as there are simply no better babysitters.
Parents advised me that we would want to stay somewhere close to Nadi Airport because, while the flights from Australia might be manageable, asking a baby to endure onward travel is not worth the parental stress. As we weren’t planning on leaving the resort, we wanted a resort (and rooms/bures) that would still be delighting us after a week. The spectacular Momi Bay ticked all the boxes.
Viti Levu: The main island
Fiji is made up of some 330 islands lying near both the Equator and the International Date Line, but most visitors fly into Nadi on Viti Levu, the main island, and stay there or head out to small resort islands off the west coast. If you have a window seat on the flight in, you can look down on myriad coral reefs, and the drive to your resort reveals the richly forested volcanic mountains in the interior. The enticing scent of tropical vegetation wafts into our transfer vehicle on a warm breeze. Less than an hour later, we enter the manicured grounds of the Marriott Momi Bay resort on the Coral Coast.
Flexibility of the snorkel morning
In what will be no news to the mothers of this world, babies and schedules don’t work well together. As a step-grandfather, it was news to me. We were due to have a morning on the water, taking a speedboat out for snorkelling, exploring a tiny coral atoll where birds nest, and perhaps view Fiji’s prime surfing site. By the time our boat driver and observer had us all in lifejackets, Leo was getting grumpy, so Sandra happily took him back to the room while his parents (and I) had some baby-free time on the water.
It was the perfect Fijian experience. A quick run across the lagoon, looking back at forested peaks and forward to the fingers of the outer reef stretching towards us. Soon we had donned snorkels, masks and fins and were looking at schools of fish swimming through colourful coral arches and bommies. A nearby strand of sand was trying to become an island, and a large flock of crested terns and noddys were already in residence. Our quest to find turtles took us near the viewing tower of Cloudbreak, one of the world’s best surfing destinations, and a couple of turtles surfaced near us off Tavarua Island. Soon we were back on the beach at Momi Bay, sandy and satiated, to find that Leo had slept through the entire morning.
Everyone had time for a hug
Drawn by Fiji’s reputation for cherishing little ones, we came seeking time together, and the island delivered on its promise. Prior to our trip, Leo had barely spent a moment away from his mum. Our snorkelling excursion was the first of several moments when Romy reclaimed her independence. We were happy to spend time with Leo, and every day he became more comfortable with us alone. Within an hour of our arrival, every staff member knew Leo, from restaurant staff to passing golf cart drivers, even gardeners. It was like touring New Jersey with Bruce Springsteen. While the ample bosom of Milli, our babysitter, was a comfortable resting place for a baby to snuggle in, watching a giant security guard (who looked ready to play rugby for Fiji) gently stroking Leo’s cheek and cooing as Leo smiled back was joyfully incongruous.
Everyone had time for a hug. If a waitress took over Leo while Romy headed to the expansive breakfast buffet, the rest of the staff willingly took up the slack. Smartly dressed reception staff stepped out from behind the desk for a spontaneous snuggle.
Then there was the babysitting. Initially Milli was booked for a couple of hours’ trial while we all went up to the adults-only infinity pool for cocktails overlooking the sea and reef. When Romy reclaimed Leo, he turned in her arms and reached back toward Milli. Maybe Fijians have some magical separation anxiety-cancelling powers? I think his mother found that moment disconcerting, if convenient.
A state of relaxation
The days unfolded effortlessly. The promise of time with our newly-minted grandson, a morning swim off our villa’s almost private beach, a comprehensive breakfast, swimming in one of several pools, working our way through the various venue options for a light lunch, reading on the deck while being distracted by the play of light and tides across the bay, another swim, pre-dinner drinks then either appreciating the theme of the night’s buffet or a special meal before falling into bed fully relaxed. We learned how to cook some Fijian dishes, and Sandra and Romy came back “deliciously relaxed” from the Quan Spa.
It turns out that a state of relaxation induces a streak of competitiveness. The free pool table was the beginning (I won), and a leisurely kayak around the island in the lagoon may have been a race to see who was back on the beach first (Romy won). But the coconut bowls competition in the daily program was where the alpha families turned up to win at a sport none of us knew existed ten minutes earlier. Chris was one of the winners of the drinks vouchers, but both Sandra and I swear we would have been in the running except for misplaced tufts of grass. I was rewarded with a gift of the offending coconuts anyway and joyfully smashed them to eat the flesh with a Fiji Gold on the beach.
While Leo was welcome at the overwater Goji Kitchen buffet restaurant his happiness with Milli opened up other dining possibilities that we embraced. Dinner at Fish Bar was a sophisticated affair despite us booking a time early enough to watch sunset over the terrace and pool– and the spectacular lighting of the cauldrons by a warrior in war paint (who had been gently hugging Leo a couple of days earlier). Another dinner in a private cabana overlooking the sea as the sun set was tranquilly romantic so we all blissfully wandered back to our villas as the stars blazed overhead.
A secluded, quintessential Fijian paradise
We treated ourselves to a private picnic breakfast out on the Point; we had no idea what to expect. A few croissants and some boiled eggs, perhaps? Instead, perched high on a grassy knoll under swaying palm trees, our picnic opened to the vast blue Pacific, a secluded, quintessential Fijian paradise where we found an elaborate spread of every imaginable breakfast food, enough to feed a wedding party. In fact, it was only when Leo got tired of watching us eat that we all wended our way through the palm tree-lined path to the main resort and another swim.
The dominant theme for our week at Momi Bay was water. Seven days was a tiny proportion of my life, but it was a significant proportion of Leo’s, and his growing love of time in the water was evident. And here he was surrounded by it: the sea was at the doorstep, and we’d go on a pool crawl from the expansive infants’ wading pool to the interlinked main pool with a swim-up bar. The lagoon beach could have been designed for Instagramming. While the infinity pool and whirlpool spa was not for him it certainly suited us.
The sweet sorrow of departure
The gentle warmth and genuine hospitality of Fijians is reflected in “Isa Lei” their farewell song. When the staff sang it to us at the barbecue on our last night we all looked at each other and smiled. It had been the perfect family getaway.
Where to stay
Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay
Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay was our considered choice and we loved our stay. It’s a remarkable resort around a grand lagoon and one of the few in Fiji to feature overwater bungalows (though they are not suitable for children). We shared the two halves of a Duplex Ocean Front Bure and we loved our almost private view and never heard a sound from the other side of the duplex.
Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort
The other resort in our shortlist was the perennial OUTRIGGER Fiji Beach Resort, which is further from the airport on the Coral Coast and is a very Fijian resort on a nice sandy beach. There’s a wide range of accommodation available from multi-storey hotel buildings to garden or beachfront bures.
Fiji travel tips
Getting to Fiji
Fiji Airways, Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin Australia are among the airlines that fly to Fiji. Nadi International Airport is the busiest and most convenient gateway, although a handful of resorts are easier accessed by direct flights from Australia to Suva.
When to visit Fiji
The dry season coincides with Australia’s winter, when temperatures are in the mid-to-high 20s with low rainfall and little chance of cyclones. The wet season is from November to April, when you can expect short tropical downpours. Accommodation is usually more affordable, but it is still hot and a great time to see waterfalls flowing.
Getting around Fiji
Most resorts in Fiji can provide transfers to and from Nadi Airport as part of their packages. Depending on where you’re staying, you may need to reach your resort via road, ferry, or boat transfer. Light plane, seaplane and helicopter access is also possible.
