As a family destination, culturally diverse South Africa has it all – from bustling cities and quaint villages to magnificent scenery and amazing wildlife. Here, 15-year-old Tori Herbert shares her amazing journey of adventure and discovery in Africa.
Shamwari Game Reserve near Port Elizabeth
Awaking early at Shamwari Game Reserve near Port Elizabeth, I’m hungry to discover my first taste of South Africa on safari.
As the morning sun peeks over the mountains, we fall upon our first wildlife encounter – a giraffe. Then water buffalo, zebra, warthogs, orex, springbuck, bushbuck and even a hippo roaming across our path. These are animals I would view with disbelief on TV right in front of me!
On our next safari we spot enormous white rhinos grazing, two leopards resting, and colossal African elephants within reaching distant as they chomp carelessly on the thorn-covered trees surrounding our car. As we drive back with a soundtrack of animal sounds, I am falling under the spell of South Africa’s charms.
Shamwari Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre
At Shamwari’s Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre we feed Zoe, an orphaned Burchell’s zebra (who stops at nothing for a scratch), and the caracals – two hand-raised orphaned kittens with alarming red fur and striking blue eyes.
We also stop at Born Free, a conservation centre that provides long-term humane care for big cats that cannot be returned to the wild where we meet Glen, their caretaker, who makes us laugh even as he shares their sad stories.
Addo Elephant National Park
The following day, we head to Addo Elephant National Park and the Gorah Elephant Camp; our accommodation is a luxurious tent facing the mountains. A waterhole less than 200m away allows perfect vision of warthogs, water buffalo and zebra quenching their thirst. Five lions sprawl lazily. In awe, mum and I watch, captivated, squealing at every yawn and stretch.
On another safari the next day I’m dumbfounded by the destruction of trees – the result, I discover, of elephants using them for scratching posts and the testosterone-fueled frustration of younger males. The highlight is the sighting of two black rhinos thrashing head to head.
We arrive back at the camp to canapés and drinks by the campfire. After dinner we are escorted to our tents (to protect us from wild animals that may or may not be lurking in the dark). We understand the point of this when we’re woken by the roar of lions unnervingly close to the tent.
We lie in bed as the roars echo from one mountain to another until we finally work up the courage to sit on the deck and watch the sunrise. It is with great reluctance that we drag ourselves away for our last game drive where five meerkats race us before diving into a sanctuary underground.
On the road to Tsitsikamma
We head for our next destination of Tsitsikamma and the lovely At The Woods Guest House, at the base of the colossal mountains.
Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour
The Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour is first on our agenda. Flying over the forest seemed like a fun idea, but reality hits as I catch a glimpse of the distance between my feet and the forest floor – it’s a long way down.
I take the leap of faith into the air and soar through the forest canopy. Behind me, mum reluctantly steps onto the platform, her fear of heights written on her face. She screeches as she takes the plunge and reaching safety declares, “I didn’t open my eyes”. We leave with our heads held high.
Bloukrans Bridge Bungy
A quick stop at Bloukrans Bridge and we witness the highest bungy in the world. We watch thrill-seekers whoop as they fall into the gorge below, dangling by a piece of elastic. I flirt briefly with the idea of joining them but can’t face the extreme deed. I leave with a hint of regret.
Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre
At Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre furry faces eye my every movement. We pass cervals, caracals and leopards on our way to the cheetahs. Born in captivity, these cats can’t be returned to the wild. The guides harness two cheetah brothers and after a briefing on the basics we’re walking them! We follow cautiously, aware that they’re still wild animals. To see them so close is extraordinary.
Exploring the Cango Caves
Farewelling At the Woods we head to the Cango Caves, a monumental showcase of nature’s incredible architecture. Intense darkness envelops us as we enter with only our guide’s whistling penetrating the silence. The lights switch and unveil a mesmerising underground world. As we exit, the familiar South African heat overcomes me and I crave, once more, the cool relief of the caves.
Riding an ostrich at Safari Ostrich Farm
Instead it’s on to the Safari Ostrich Farm for ostrich riding. I ride horses it can’t be that hard, I figure before hearing the instructions. “Keep your legs locked around its waist,” shouts our guide Daniel. “You MUST grab its wings,” screams another man. “VERY TIGHT! Lean back,” interjects another. “FURTHER!” screams Daniel.
The Ostrich takes off and I hold on for dear life until it stops and I step (or fall) off. This is definitely a once-in-a lifetime experience.
Soon after, we arrive at the luxurious De Zeekoe Guesthouse. The gorgeous rooms provide the perfect peaceful end to the day.
Cycling the rugged Swartberg Pass
An early morning departure takes us to Swartberg Pass to enjoy a cycling tour of the area, only to be stopped by a troupe of powerful black Baboons who have commandeered the road.
We continue through ravines with rocks piled ominously on top of each other. We stop to clamber up a rocky escarpment until we reach a sequence of rock pools containing crystal-clear water and the occasional croaking frog. A waterfall spills dramatically into a larger pool, and an elderly local tells us the legend of a water snake enticing maidens and then dragging them to the bottom to turn them into mermaids and his wives.
Lore and legends in historic Prince Albert
We continued on our way to the historic township of Prince Albert. During a cooking class at African Relish we prepare freshly made pasta and sauce, stuffed lamb and a white chocolate and cranberry semi-freddo. Despite my lack of kitchen skills, I rustle up (with extraordinary guidance from gorgeous head chef Vani) a three-course meal.
In high spirits we are escorted to a Karoo-style cottage, dating back to 1856, on the outskirts of Prince Albert. Then the passionate historian and storyteller Ailsa Tudhope of The Story Weaver walks us through a dusk ghost and history tour of the town. We’re riveted by the spine-tingling tales of local legends. Spooked but exhausted, we head back to our accommodation, imagining all the spirits of Prince Albert following us home.
Shark diving thrills in Gansbaai
As the new day starts we are overcome with excitement (tinged with fear) as we head shark diving in Gansbaai (and not just any shark, but great whites!) with Marine Dynamics.
With nothing but a 10mm wetsuit and 350kg cage to protect us, we’re ready. Mum and I join six other divers in the freezing water, while great whites circle our ‘safety cage’. Guides on the boat throw in stinky fish heads attached on thick ropes to attract the sharks. Soon enough a sharks nose is edging into the cage, teeth bared, just centimetres away. We’re all screaming with a mixture of exhilaration, thrill, and terror.
The dive boat takes us back to land via an island strewn with more than 60,000 seals and the largest nesting colony of African penguins (shark take away). As the sun sets we take a detour to spot whales and dolphins, amazed at seeing the marine big five in one day – great whites, whales, cape fur seals, African seals and dolphins.
Seeing the sights of vibrant Cape Town
It’s our last day and we arrive in Cape Town to find it buzzing. We brave the not-so-welcoming weather on the roof of an open-bus tour around the city, but as the rain increases we head inside to take cover. We pass streets that hold decades of good and bad history and head into a city bursting with quirky stores and vintage boutiques. I love the individuality and originality of it.
Sadly, it’s time for our flight home and as I think back over the unforgettable and unique experiences South Africa offers, I realise I’ve fallen completely in love with the exhilarating charms of the country.
Opening image: Two zebras at Addo Elephant National Park in South Africa. © Bert B / Unsplash
